YAN XU FW24 - Eastern Artwork Meets Western Design

In our quest to finding new talented artisans, we had an inspiring conversation with Junyan Xu, the creative director of YAN XU, who established her Parisian-based menswear fashion label in 2020. 

Born into an artistic family, Junyan Xu cultivated her passion for classic Chinese paintings and wood carvings at the age of 7 already.

Drawing inspiration from her Eastern origins and upbringing, Xu integrates traditional Chinese techniques such as wood carving and ink-wash painting into her exclusive pattern language while pursuing radical romanticism through her designs.

Parisian Days - The Inspiration from Art

"So, back in 2016, I delved into philosophy, and it kind of flipped my world, potentially influenced by a shift in my living environment. During my academic life in Paris, art exhibitions became my jam, especially Van Gogh's "Wheatfield with Crows." It became a wellspring of inspiration. Despite his struggles, that art was like a healing balm, making me rethink life." 

Xu explains that her fascination for artwork continues to heal and renew her perspectives on the world. She translates her ideas into seasonal narratives that can be traced back in details such as her hangtags and art exhibitions.

 Chinese Seal cutting work (inspired for hangtags)

Fusion of Eastern Synthesis and Western Aesthetics

It wasn’t only the cultivation of Eastern aesthetic traditions such as calligraphy and ink-painting that established the brand ethos of Yan Xu. 

"Paris threw a curveball, remixing my style with a fusion of Eastern and Western aesthetics," Yan Xu explains. ‘’My sojourn in Paris progressively redefined my value system and aesthetic sensibilities.’’

This interflow of cultures served as a defining paradigm for Yan Xu's brand, which is felt back in designs that would perfectly work for a city stroll, ending up in a cocktail party at a Parisian art gallery.

Print Design and Craftsmanship

During her time at istituto Marangoni in Paris, Yan Xu found menswear to be the perfect canvas for creative expression. Each collection is a testament to Yan Xu's avant-garde interpretation of Western musical nuances and Eastern ink art. Themes such as "Time and Existence" or inspiration from the violin composition "Contemplation," are adapted in print designs of her collections. 

From the conceptualization of prints to the creation of fabrics, Yan Xu's commitment to craftsmanship is clearly noticeable. 

Unlike the conventional emphasis on solely natural materials, they search for materials that effectively communicate their poetic narratives and aesthetic. While experimenting with irregular fabric textures and prints from their own paintings, no detail is left unseen from the selection yarn colors to ensuring uniform dyeing of fabrics.

The Fall 2024 collection reflects Xu’s exploration in Aichi Prefecture in Japan, where she collaborated with adept weavers from yarn selection to the weaving design patterns.