This was one of the strongest showings we’ve seen from Satoshi Kondo. The range of textures, the evolution of silhouettes, and the sheer creativity behind every look made it clear that Kondo is not just carrying on. We saw tailored pieces, oversized silhouettes, sculptural layering, and an intriguing interplay of knitwear in double patching and unexpected item reimagination. Even a slight Western-influenced feeling that we don’t always associate with Issey Miyake.

The collection was built around four conceptual pillars: Abstract Concrete, Body Object, Nature Fabrication, and Clothing Sculpture. What made this particularly fascinating was how clearly each look corresponded to one of these ideas. Every piece had a role, contributing to the larger narrative that Kondo wanted to tell. The collection was named Neither Nor, which felt fitting given the way it blurred boundaries between structure and fluidity, between the traditional and the experimental.

It opened with restrained, neutral, simple yet striking looks in a white and red pattern, before transitioning into more formal elements. We saw interesting black-and-white suiting, and beautifully structured boxy blazers. One standout within this section was a jumpsuit hybrid, where a boxy blazer became tailored around the waist and then flowed seamlessly into a short skirt. An unexpected yet incredibly balanced silhouette. From there, the show shifted gears into the Body Object segment, where padding and filling were used to create three-dimensional, almost sculptural effects, transforming the models into moving forms of art.

As the narrative progressed, we entered the realm of Abstract Concrete. Here, everyday objects  such as the shopping bags were exaggerated, expanded, and transformed into wearable garments. This segment showcased Kondo’s ability to zoom in on the mundane and elevate it into something avant-garde and architectural. The collection then took a surprising turn, embracing a distinctly Western, European sensibility. 

Towards the finale, Satoshi Kondo returned to its signature layered pieces, but with new twists. Scarves adorned with multiple glove-like elements, black-on-black layering, and padded coats with cleverly integrated pocket structures. It was in these final moments that Kondo reaffirmed how clothing itself could be transformed into sculpture. The collection concluded with a series of stunning pleated garments, where color gradients blended seamlessly, before culminating in a new material experiment: polyester mesh. This airy, almost summer-like fabric introduced a lightness that contrasted beautifully with the weightier, structured pieces earlier in the collection.

CREDITS

Photography by Muriel Rieben