For Fall-Winter 2025, Yohji Yamamoto delivered a collection that was as unexpected as it was pragmatic, an exploration of warmth and elegance through the lens of outerwear. This season, the designer embraced practicality in a way rarely seen in his oeuvre, presenting an array of puffer jackets and coats that stood in stark contrast to his usual draping and deconstructed tailoring.

At the heart of the collection was a clear mission: to redefine the perception of down-filled outerwear, making it sophisticated enough to complement a suit yet functional enough to endure the cold. Yohji sought refinement, opting for more streamlined silhouettes. This shift extended beyond outerwear, as puffer elements seamlessly integrated into trousers, creating a full-body embrace of insulation, an approach that was entirely new for the house.

Yamamoto’s signature prints remained, ensuring a throughline to his established aesthetic, but the materials told a different story. Synthetic fabrics dominated, marking a noticeable departure from his usual textural richness. Whether intentional or a byproduct of technical exploration, this choice was polarizing. While it reinforced the collection’s contemporary city-ready identity, it also raised questions about its alignment with the artisanal fabric-driven philosophy that has long defined the brand.

The collection’s strength lay in its ability to make everyday wear feel elevated. Reversible garments, deconstructed outerwear, and a city chic sensibility underscored Yamamoto’s focus on modern urban dressing, garments designed to navigate both the elements and the expectations of sophistication. The fusion of puffer aesthetics with formality, particularly in layering over suits, challenged conventional ideas of winter dressing, offering a vision where warmth and refinement coexist seamlessly.

For long-time followers of Yohji Yamamoto, this collection may have felt unfamiliar, even disorienting. The shift in materials, the emphasis on practicality, and the introduction of puffers marked a stark evolution.

CREDITS

Photography exclusively for LUCENTEMENT® by Floris Koopman