Interview Aviva Jifei Xue x Tagliovivo

During the SS24 Paris Fashion Week, we sat down with Giordano from Tagliovivo and Aviva Jifei Xue, as they have collaborated on a series of new bags. This partnership unites their shared commitment to artistry, exquisite materials, and craftsmanship. Join us as we explore the unique stories and design philosophies that have brought these talented designers together. 

LCM: How did the collaboration between Tagliovivo and Aviva Jue come into existence?

Tagliovivo: Our introduction came about through a mutual friend who recognized the creative synergy between Aviva and myself. Upon engaging in conversations and discovering Aviva's work, we realized that our artistic visions indeed aligned. Initially, our intention was to simply share a showroom, an experiment of sorts, as we prepared to show for the first time with Menswear Paris Fashion Week. However, a natural collaboration between began to unfold.

LCM: Could you share some insights into the creative process behind the collaboration? How did you combine your unique design aesthetics and techniques to create a cohesive vision for the bag?

Tagliovivo: Recognizing the shared imagery of our brands, we invited Aviva to delve into our archive to select four models. Aviva worked her magic, infusing the chosen pieces with her creativity for our collaboration. The aim was to merge our strengths into a singular vision - Aviva's expertise in organic fibers with natural dyes and our own expertise in leatherwork and hand dyes. 

Aviva: The development of this collaboration was a process that required extensive communication, particularly digitally as we are based in different parts of the world.  Fortunately, we had the opportunity to meet in Japan, coincidentally while both of us were there for work. This allowed me to personally showcase the fabric's color to Giordano, ensuring he had a precise reference for replication.

The collaboration presented some challenges with regards to time constraints, as it involved several steps, beginning with the conceptualization and selection of the bags and additional elements. I then worked closely with my fabric supplier in Japan to choose, dye and screen print the materials. Subsequently, Giordano undertook the task of replicating the color, conducting tests and experiments to achieve a perfect match with the fabric.

LCM: Can you describe any specific elements, motifs, or design details in the bag that are exclusively for collaboration?

Tagliovivo: Within the collaboration, there are specific elements and details that are exclusive to this partnership. Firstly, the models selected for the bags are sourced from the Tagliovivo archive and the majority are not replicated in our current collections. More specific features are the strap, which is crafted from leather but has a canvas cotton cover, and the inside lining. 

LCM: Did you incorporate any unique or unconventional materials from Aviva Jifei Xue’s background in natural fibers?

Aviva: Yeah, actually the cotton canvas strap is made with kakishibu dye and brings a touch of natural elegance to the bags. The kakishibu dyeing technique is a traditional Japanese method that utilizes fermented persimmon tannin, resulting in a beautiful and unique brown and gray color palette. Through multiple washes, we created a shade that shifts between brown and gray in different lighting. We then used this dyed canvas to cover the leather straps, adding texture to the bags.

The lining of the bags features a special fabric blend of organic cotton and hemp, print dyed with a Gallnut Aluminum and Iron dye. This print holds cultural significance, dating back to Indian traditions, and also reflects the essence of my own Spring Summer 24 collection. By incorporating this natural dye printed material into the lining, we subtly infuse a touch of my own collection's manifesto into the collaborative bags. The classic shape of the Tagliovivo leather bags remains the focal point, with the lining and strap serving as a nuanced nod to my artistic vision.

LCM: Were there any experimental dyeing techniques or processes utilized to create distinctive shades on the leather of the bags?

Tagliovivo: It proved to be quite challenging to achieve the shade of gray, due to the various undertones that gray possess, ranging from greenish and yellowish to blue hues. To overcome this, we experimented with a combination of six different colors in varying proportions.

Additionally, we started with the white-dyed leather as the base, as achieving the desired color on natural leather would have been nearly impossible. The color we sought undergoes a transformation from brown to gray depending on lighting and other factors, making the experimentation process crucial in achieving the right color. Through extensive testing and adjustments, we ultimately succeeded in creating a similar shade of gray.

 LCM: What aspects of the bag do you believe truly showcase the synergy between Tagliovivo and Aviva Jue's design sensibilities?

Aviva: I believe that the print lining on the inside of the bag and the canvas cotton strap truly exemplify the synergy between Tagliovivo and my own design sensibilities. The print lining reflects the more feminine aspect of my creative expression. It adds a touch of visual interest to the interior of the bag. On the other hand, the construction and overall look of the bag showcase the strong, artisanal qualities that are synonymous with Tagliovivo. The combination of these elements, the delicate print lining, and the robust construction, demonstrates the harmonious blending of our design sensibilities.

Explore more

Did you like the interview and want to know more about Tagliovivo and Aviva Jifei Xue? Read the recent interview we did with Tagliovivo or browse our curation of high quality crafts from Tagliovivo in our shop. For more information on Aviva Jifei Xue, read our collection review of her FW23 collection.